The heirloom tomatoes at the Union Square Green Market are amazing! Best way to appreciate them is with coarse salt, EVOO and a lil’ cracked pepper. If you got a lil’ mozzarella di bufala, it’s a great combination! Or even a fresh local mozzarella. If you’re really smart and come by Frank Restaurant and have it with out Buratta!
Cut the heirlooms with a very sharp nice so you don’t bruise them and lose the juice on the cutting board. Make sure to cut them THICK so they burst in your mouth! NEVER use a fine salt on tomatoes. Fine salt will dissolve and rob it of sweetness and liquid within a few moments. Coarse salt works wonders. It also adds a nice crunch and SEPARATES the salt from the sweetness of the tomato. It’s just night and day!
Let’s Talk Tomatoes! | ![]() |
| September 21st, 2009 |
Let’s Talk Healthy Greens & Whole Grains! | ![]() |
| September 10th, 2009 |
Three new dishes tonight! Bucatini Pantesca, which includes pantellerian capers, olives, Sicilian salted anchovies, new potatoes, cherry tomatoes, collard greens and bread crumbs. Rigatoni Black Kale Alfredo, which has grape seed oil seared kale, smashed garlic, cream, EVOO, pepperoncino and parmigiano chunks. And finally, creamless local corn chowder with ricotta di bufala, crisp pancetta, spicy oil, and parsley. Pictures of our new dishes coming soon! We are running them tonight for eat-in only. One perfected we will figure out delivery!
Let’s Talk Raviolis! | ![]() |
| September 10th, 2009 |
It’s a myth that you need anything special to make your own raviolis. Flour, eggs, a lil’ water, rolling pin and a knife. Pour flour out onto a board, make well in center, add whole eggs in center, whisk eggs with fork slowly while incorporating the flour from edges. Keep doing this until the egg mixture in center becomes nice & thick. Then knead in just enough to form an elastic dough, sprinkle a lil’ water and continue to knead the dough till smooth. Let rest for 1-2 hours covered in fridge. Pull out and roll out as thinly as possible. Cut out either squares or circles and fill with desired filling, then egg wash the ends of dough and fold over or put another same size square on top. Seal the edges together with your fingers and put on a well-floured sheet pan. Be sure to leave space between the raviolis and flour them nicely. Boil water and drop your raviolis in. Wait for them to float to top then let them cook for one minute and serve with butter and cheese or tomato sauce. Sounds easy right? It is. Its just a pasta dough “purse” and any shape that can hold filling is valid. There are thousands of ravioli shapes in Italy.
Let’s Talk Italian Restaurants! | ![]() |
| July 13th, 2009 |
So sorry folks, been enjoying a precious summer with my grandchildren and great grandchildren. Let’s talk about what makes a great Italian restaurant.
A great Italian restaurant always has great rustic bread. Crusty, natural yeasts for a starter, uneven holes in the sponge, and elasticity. They never cook all their pastas to order and NEVER precook dry pasta. Great Italian restaurants make you immediately feel at home by welcoming you with a smile. There is NEVER any attitude. They should always follow traditional regional cuisine from Italy and stay true to it. They import all their wines, cheeses and cured meats. Great Italian restaurants have excellent and extensive collections of regional Italian wines to pair with their regional Italian cuisine. Great Italian restaurants have history behind them. The chef is well traveled in Italy, attends festivals and does his own research. Great Italian restaurants use ALL FRESH ingredients. Nothing is bought pre-prepared or frozen unless it is made that way in Italy by Italians.
Let’s Talk Tagliatelle Pasta! | ![]() |
| June 22nd, 2009 |
I will be discussing how to make fresh tagliatelle Pasta today. So let’s talk fresh pasta. It’s all about texture. There is nothing worse than “gummy” fresh pasta. I won’t get into actual recipe for pasta itself now. Everyone has their own version. I will discuss the method for now. Anyone that needs a recipe, just ask. So, take a traditional roller pasta maker, you know, the table mount type with the thick rollers? Roll your pasta through until the smallest setting. It’s at this point that people make mistakes. You must lay the thin pasta sheets out on sheet pans and dry them slightly before you cut into tagliatelle. You must dry them out perfectly. The sheets should be dry but pliable before u cut them in the tagliatelle attachment. You then lay the tag out on sheet pans with semolina flour and let them dry even further till almost completely dry then cover and refrigerate.
Let’s Talk Mozzarella! | ![]() |
| June 22nd, 2009 |
Sorry I’ve been out of touch folks! Spent some time in Italia! I was in Puglia folks! I also went to Naples! I saw my cousins and a lot of their kids! So cute!
Today let’s talk Mozzarella! There are many, many types and made all across the world but the best comes from the regions of Puglia & Campania. Puglia is the heel of the boot from the spur (Gargano coast) all the way down 2 the tip of the heel which is Santa Maria De Leuca in Salento. Puglia is famous for many things in Italy and mozzarella is a big one. Burrata, Stracciatella, and Fior di Latte are the main types. Burrata is a mozzarella nicknamed “beggars purse.” It has Fior di Latte mozzarella outside and a cream fortified stringy mozzarella center known as “Stracciatella.” Stracciatella is also sold on it’s own in Puglia and we feature it in our restaurants with ripe beefsteak tomatoes and fresh basil leaves. In Puglia, Fior di Latte is made in many shapes and sizes. The milk in Puglia is supernatural for mozzarella. As if God created it specifically for it.
Every morning in Puglia I go out very early to the local cheese shop and grab the still warm, freshly made Fior di Latte mozzarella. It’s spectacular. I love to leave it out on the counter all day and just keep slicing and eating it. I pour EVOO over it and feast on it with bread.
In Campania the Fior di Latte, in my opinion, is not as good as in Puglia BUT they make the infamous Mozzarella di Bufala there! An incredible mozzarella, Bufala mozzarella is more earthy and nutty. The texture is completely different and the water content is higher. Mozzarella in Puglia is such a diet staple, not to mention such an amazing treat. Pliable, tender and oozing milk fat. Alone, or with bread and tomato. Mozzarella di Bufala sandwiches are truly perfect. Thick sliced beefsteak tomatoes, fresh leaves of basil on crusty firm spongy Pugliese bread with EVOO and sea salt. Another favorite from Puglia is “Pane Pomodoro.” It’s simply bread and tomatoes with coarse sea salt, tons of fruity Pugliese EVOO and some hand torn basil leaves. Always use a dense spongy pane Pugliese for pane Pomodoro and always press the ripe tomatoes into the bread, smashing the pulp into breads pores. For a nice brunch twist on Pane Pomodoro add a poached egg on top and some torn wild arugula leaves and you will be thanking me profusely!
Let’s Talk Pesto! | ![]() |
| June 1st, 2009 |
The summer is almost upon us and there is no simpler herb to grow and eat all summer long. Pesto is a Genovese specialty. It is a mortar and pestle process, NOT a food processor process. You MUST make it in a traditional mortar and pestle. Pesto consists of the best basil leaves you can find, whole garlic cloves, pignoli nuts, EVOO from Genoa, sea salt and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Pesto can be terrible when not done properly. Please follow my instructions to the letter.
1st Rule: NEVER use pesto from a jar. It’s HORRIBLE. Basil is a fresh leaf herb that does NOT age well. It makes zero sense to be lazy with pesto.
2nd Rule: Never make pesto too far in advance, and never use it when it’s older than two days
Get yourself a good mortar and pestle. No kitchen is complete without it. Make sure to get one that fits at least 2 cups.
Here is a simple pesto recipe.
Ingredients: Perfect whole basil (leaves only), Italian pignoli nuts, whole cloves garlic, coarse Italian sea salt, very finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (I like the summer parm which I think is the best for pesto) and Genovese EVOO.
Directions: Surround your mortar and pestle with the ingredients. Now the best way to proceed is to wing it. I like an equal balance between all flavors. This is something that needs to be done as you work because all garlic is not the same, all nuts are not the same, and most importantly all basil is NEVER the same. Arrange ingredients around mortar and pestle and add your basil (so it overflows the M&P) Then add a lil’ garlic, a lil’ pignoli, salt & start mashing it. Continue mashing it with the mortar until the basil is completely pulverized, now taste it and smell it. Adjust salt garlic and pignoli amounts and finish mashing till you have a fine paste. Add your EVOO, your parmigiano and readjust salt again. If you need a lot of pesto just repeat process again. Tip: If I know I am making Trofie (curly pasta similar in shape to cavatelli) al pesto I leave the pesto a lil’ oily to coat the pasta better. Now when making Trofie al pesto you NEVER cook the pesto. You let the heat of the pasta itself along with some pasta H2O steep it. Add some more parm and then SERVE. Believe me folks. The Mortar and pestle is the ONLY way to go. Pesto is named after the device. It is INDISPENSABLE. I also enjoy Potato Gnocchi al Pesto but that’s about it. Go with Trofie and you will never be disappointed.
Let’s Talk Pugliese Cuisine! | ![]() |
| May 27th, 2009 |
Crudo once again was born of having the most amazingly fresh fish available right at your doorstep everyday. In Puglia, its the Adriatic sea. Kids in Puglia grow up eating fish that most adults here would never touch or recognize and in many instances they are eating it raw! Ricci di Mare is sea urchin. They are everywhere in Puglia and make one of my favorite crudos and pastas. Spaghetti Ricci is an amazing dish. Ricci Di Mare as crudo you just go raw and eat it, some will splash lemon on it but others call that sacrilege. In Spaghetti Ricci simply cook your pasta al dente and then toss with butter and/or EVOO and toss while it is still hot with a generous amount of Ricci. I like to use a lil’ sea salt as well and if I’m really feeling crazy a lil’ fresh parsley. NO CHEESE AT ALL! Doesn’t work folks! And neither does GARLIC!
There are so many amazing Pugliese dishes to discuss. Let’s talk about a real Classic: Fava e cicoria, which consists of dried fava bean puree and bitter greens. It’s simple and amazing. We sell it here at Frank Restaurant in NYC and its a huge crowd pleaser.
Ingredients are: dried peeled fava beans, smashed garlic, EVOO in abundance and dandelion or similar bitter greens. Real Cicoria is unavailable here. Italian cicoria I have never seen in our markets, it is even tough to find at times in Italy depending on when you are looking. The method on fava is simple: abundant EVOO in a pot, add smashed garlic, very lightly toasted, add soaked fava sautéed and water and cook till tender. Add just enough water to cover the fava in the pot and watch it very closely on low heat till the fava is soft. Then puree 1/3 of it and mix sea salt to taste and stir in more EVOO. The greens you braise in olive oil garlic and water till tender mix the greens in or serve on top Often Fava e cicoria is served with a variety of vegetables. At Frank restaurant we do with dandelion in puree and oven roasted fennel, broccoli, green beans. It’s a great dish for both summer and winter because it can also be served at room temperature!
Let’s Talk Garlic & Oil! | ![]() |
| May 27th, 2009 |
There are many ways to do it. All different, all valid. A few things to remember is to NEVER SERVE raw garlic and oil. The oil that comes out of garlic is like poison to the system and makes it difficult to taste anything else in the dish. Garlic is known as an “antibiotic”. It’s so strong that it kills cells just like one. This has it’s uses in medicine but not food. There is not a single authentic Italian dish that I have ever come across that calls for raw garlic. The Italians laugh at us when we do it. It’s horrible.
So, back to garlic and oil. There are many choices here as far as oil goes and lets discuss that first and foremost. EVOO is the most common but misunderstood. Now we have discussed this before and I urge you to look back and see. EVOO’s have low melting points so they are not always the best choice. I like using lower quality kinds for garlic & oil though because I love the fruitiness. Under NO circumstances should you use a high quality. Grape seed oil is another excellent choice, it has a super high melting point and works well for greens and other bitter or stronger flavored vegetable, meat and fish dishes. A regular, or not extra virgin, olive oil also works very well and tend to be reasonably priced. I use “Fellipo Berio” brand and have for 40+ years.
Here are some tips on handling the garlic: 1. Smashing it. Put the garlic under the blade of a wide knife like a cleaver and SMASH knife down on the clove with your fist. This releases all oil from clove. Now try to imagine the clove for what it really is, a densely structured fruit loaded with oil. Once this oil is released the garlic becomes more friendly to use and also is how we prepare garlic for use on our line in most of our dishes. Because when garlic hits the oil it can be fully cooked much quicker and depending on how long you fry it can be done toasted or left blonde. You can even boil smashed garlic and throw it in your salad dressings (like Caesar) that call for raw garlic (which for me is just insanely wrong.) Smashed Garlic and Oil: In a pan add your oil and garlic and turn the heat on low when garlic starts to boil in the oil. You must watch it very closely.
Now at this point you need to make some choices: Are you looking for a “toasty” garlic flavor or a soft garlic flavor? What are you serving it with?
For traditional Spaghetti Aglio e Olio, you need a lil’ toast. Just a tiny bit once this is achieved you need to “cease” the garlic. There are a few ways: Best way to “cease” the garlic is to use the salted pasta water that is cooking your spaghetti. BE CAREFUL. If your oil is too hot you will splatter all over! This is why you need to use LOW HEAT and bring the garlic up slowly, then pull it OFF the flame and add twice as much water as oil to the pan. The water will immediately boil. Simmer this mix until it has reduced by half and you have equal parts oil and liquid. Your sauce is now ready! On the side roughly chop just the leaves from Italian parsley and when your pasta is a perfect al dente, add it to your pan with sauce and toss with parsley. If you’re a purist, you can stop here, eat and call it a day. If not you could also added pepperoncino to the oil with the garlic and made Aglio e olio e pepperoncino.
Now here is where everybody starts getting upset. Do I add cheese to this dish or not? Well I’ll tell ya and my grandson is gonna kill me but I like it! Sometimes I go pure but sometimes I want cheese! What’s the big deal? Please don’t be mean to an old woman and tell her she can’t have her cheese! Now What cheese, you ask? For me this is a Southern Italian dish and Pecorino from Puglia or Sicily is proper but Parmigiano works well also. Now in the old days during the depression we did something that is another GREAT option for this dish: seasoned toasted breadcrumbs! No one could afford cheese. Hell, we couldn’t even afford bread at times. We used EVERYTHING back then and I still do now.
Heres how: Seasoned breadcrumbs as a topping for pasta are super easy and sometimes, for me, more appropriate than cheese. Take your old stale bread and chop it up. Put it into a bowl, add olive oil, Sicilian dried oregano, pepperoncino, an abundance of sea salt and parsley. Then turn it out onto a sheet pan and put it in a 325 degree oven, shaking and mixing every few minutes until you have reached desired toasty-ness. They are now done, sprinkle at will!
This same recipe is great for baked clams and “raconate” which is Pugliese dialect (My husband Carlo was from Foggia, Puglia) for oreganata. Carlo has passed away, God rest his soul and God knows he loved raconate! We would sprinkle it over garden vegetables and bake them and just cry like babies. SO GOOD! Or on calamari baked quickly with a ribbon of EVOO and parsley, or with filet of sole baked with some wine, or even on seppia (cuttlefish.) Ahhh, Puglia! The crudo we would eat on the beach, the ricci di mare (seaurchin) he would dive for and then eat raw with lemon, the cozze (mussels,) sweet and salty, that he would take right off rocks near the beach raw and feed to me while serenading me. My God! I miss him! The Spaghetti Ricci he would make! Carlo my love, I will join you soon, but first I need to teach Twitter the things we learned and lived together. These things must live on so we can!
Let’s Talk Garlic! | ![]() |
| May 27th, 2009 |
By far the biggest mistake people make when it comes to Italian food is how they handle the king of aromatics: GARLIC. Garlic is very offensive when done wrong. From the way you cut it, to the way you cook it, to the way to eat it, garlic is make or break in a dish. Let’s start with the most popular methods:
1. Whole roasted garlic. You can accomplish this many ways and all are interesting and valid. You can do it inside the husk by simply throwing it in the oven. You put the whole head in a 325 degree oven for about a half an hour till the cloves are golden brown and soft. This produces sweet creamy spreadable garlic. Or you can do the same method but split the heads in half crosswise allowing you to see the cloves caramelizing. Either way produces a very similar result.
2. EVOO Poached Garlic. I love this method the most for a sweet garlic result and this is also how we make our garlic bread at Frank Restaurant. You simply submerge a sauce pot full of garlic cloves in EVOO and cook as slow as possible on top of the stove till the cloves are golden blond and soft. U can then purée that and make a spread or leave them whole and the uses are just limitless. Garlic this way is the most un-offensive to the system. We serve the same garlic whole with seared codfish, roasted eggplant caviar and roasted peppers, and it’s just divinity on the plate. Garlic ,like onions, have a lot of natural sugar that when made this way comes out so nicely. And the oil leftover also becomes just amazing. Now that oil from the poached garlic is just dreamy. I love to olive oil poach fish in it. It’s just endless folks when u are in the know…






